Needleweaving   Cut thread weave into slip knot, use of fork,  weave over and under, How change colors of threads.

We are going to start Weaving


Welcome to Lesson #8
Lesson #8 Pictures  
We are going to start "Needleweaving"

In Lesson #8 we are going to cut the DMC perle cotton for the weft thread (horizontal) and Start "Needleweaving". Lots of pictures about adding new colored threads. Have Fun Needleweaving!!!

Cutting the DMC perle cotton and START WEAVING

All larger pictures for this lesson can be view at NeedleweavingPictures for Lesson #8
#1 First we are going to cut the DMC perle cotton thread. Be sure and read the text in Lesson #9 for some good tips.

Welcome to Lesson #8

First of all, I want to thank all of you for hanging in there with me.  Getting all these lessons
out to you has been a new challenge for me.  I know you are all excited about creating a beautiful wearable art necklace.  Just wait until you wear it, you can tell everyone you learned how to needleweave on the internet.  Wow! I think that's fantastic.

You all have the DMC perle cotton and other novelty yarns that you want to use for your needleweaving.  RIGHT?  You can see Sue cutting the DMC perle cotton in the picture above. (Picture #1)
You will see a knot at the top when you unwind the skein of thread.  Hold the knot in your left
hand and stretch the skein out with your right hand.  Cut through all the threads at the right hand end of this loop. This gives you just the right length of thread to work with.
 You will see a DMC thread coming off the knot at the top. Take one of these threads and tie the DMC wrapper to it. This is avery important step. When you want to purchase more of this color thread, you only have to look at the thread and wrapper. Keep all the DMC threads with wrappers. when you go shopping gather up wrappers then there is no question what colors threads are needed.  It's very annoying not having the right color to finish a project.  It's always wise to purchase more thread than you think you will need, so you don't run out.

#2 Now we are starting on the top left side of the pattern with the DMC yarn.

Since we already have one extra thread from the slip knot we do not want to add another thread. So, we are starting at the #8 line pin. Leave about 1-2 inch tail, hanging vertically down along the waxed linen thread.

 

 

 

 

#2b
Remember it is very important wherever the knot is you have to weave over and under each thread of the slip knot to lock in the threads (treat as two threads).Go back the opposite direction, hold the tail of the DMC thread along the waxed linen and weave around it, enclosing the tail.  I like weaving about 1 inch to hide the thread. DO NOT CLIP THREAD YET!

 

 

#3 Here you can see the tail hanging down better.

This shows a full view of our pattern. We are starting on the left side of the pattern. You can start with another thread at the right side of the pattern. Remember to reverse your design when you weave on the other side.

 

 

 

#4 Next push all the threads up with the fork to make them tight. You can also use the needle to push the DMC warp (horizontaly) up as straight as you can.  Be careful not to pull the DMC too tight so that the waxed linen looks pulled. You can add bank pins to remind you "Don't Pull Tight".

Here I'm weaving down on line #7 pin and still weaving around the DMC tail that is hanging down. See the waxed linen warp threads to the left of the bead. There will be another thread of DMC added to this area.

#5 Shows how you go to the next set of warps and weave down. You will weave on both sides of the beads.  In this picture you will see that you'll have to start another DMC thread along the left side of the bead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your warp (vertical threads) are wrapped around the bank pins . RIGHT?   Ok! Here is where you will be going to Lesson 8 pictures, I can show you better with pictures than words.

The DMC perle cotton now becomes your Weft thread (horizontal thread). It covers the warp (vertical threads) waxed linen threads.  You will begin weaving at the bank pin at column 8 and row 2 of the pattern. Beads can still be added or changed, if necessary.  After you cut the thread as mentioned in (Picture #1) above, thread your needle with the DMC thread that you planned for the top of the pattern.
This pattern has the slip knot at the beginning of the weaving process, each pattern will be different. If you have the book "Beads and Threads", on page 63 you will see this process.

Notice that the slip knot is further down in the pattern.   Since we have the slip knot at the beginning of our pattern we will start weaving at the opposite end of the slip knot.   We will weave around the waxed linen thread on the left side and hide the DMC perle cotton on the right of the left side of the pattern. (Picture #2)

 
It's very important to mention that you have to weave into the slip knot to lock it in (Picture #2). The area where you left 1/4" in the slip knot is where you weave two threads over and under. As soon as you weave past the slip knot it becomes one thread.

Ready set go!  Let's start Needleweaving!

 Lay the tail of the DMC thread along the edge of the warp thread and weave around the tail as if it were part of the first warp thread (Picture #2).  You will weave around this tail to hide it, no knot is needed.  I always leave a small amount of thread showing for a while to remind me not to hide another DMC Perle cotton in the same warp.  It would be too bulky.

When you start weaving, treat each weft (vertical) thread individually.  Go under the first warp thread and over the second one of each pair across the area to be filled.  Then go back the opposite direction and reverse the weave under the over and over the under. Remember when you learned that in kindergarten. HA HA.  Try not to pull the warp threads to tight or it will distort the outer warp threads.  


When you get to the end of the row use the fork to push the threads up toward the bank pins.  (Picture #4)  Remember, you want to make the weaving from left to right look as straight horizontally as you can.  When you get to a section that has beads you go back the other way, this leaves an open area around your beads.  Sometime it can look lacy. You can move the warp with the bead up to enable you to weave around the bead (Picture #6) Weave over and under as many warp threads as needed to fill in the area that you are using with that color of thread.  
Picture #5 Don't forget to keep pushing your weft threads (horizontal) up with the fork so that it is closely packed to completely cover the warp threads. 

I switched to the "African Necklace theme and started it same point the purple thread left off. Click to see Larger Pictures

#6 Now we have to talk about changing colors or adding new thread. More below #7 Remember your design is reverse on the other side of the necklace. #8When you get down to the middle it will come together as one #9When using different colored threads it works faster if you have a needle for each color, still no knots. #10Sometime I leave the tails up to alert me that there is a thread hidden in that vertical warp thread so I won't try and hide another tail in that area.

Now we have to talk about changing colors or adding new thread (Picture #6) .
Before you add a new thread lets deal with the last thread. Ok, before the thread gets to short, pass
the (needle with weft horizontal thread) vertically up or down along a woven warp (vertical) thread to hide it
(Picture #6) It's good to hide it in it's own color if possible, then the end won't show. Don't clip the tail yet.

To keep a symmetrical look to your weaving, have another threaded needle on the right side of your pattern using the same weaving process as on the left side (Picture #7)  Remember your design is reverse on the other side of the necklace.  If you work alternately from side to side you will be able to keep track of the different colored areas. When you get down to the middle it will come together as one (Picture#8).
When using different colored threads it works faster if you have a needle for each color (Picture# 9).  Remember, still no knots.

 
When starting a new color of thread you lay the thread down along a vertical warp pair.  Then just weave around around the tail and warp. This hides it well.  If it works into the top threads better leave a 1 inch tail to be glued and clipped off later.  In Picture #10) you will see how to hide the tails of thread up through the warps with the same color of thread.  Don't cut the thread until you weave down a little further
(Picture #10) .  Sometime I leave the tails up to alert me that there is a thread hidden in that vertical warp thread so I won't try and hide another tail in that area.  Here's where you use the fray stop, or a small amount of waterproof fabric glue to secure the end, then clip so the end won't show.   

#11 Here I was trying to decide which center piece looked best. Lesson #8

#12 The finished pendant part of the needleweaving.

#13 The finished pendant part of the needleweaving.

You can see the two sides of the pattern come together in (Picture #11), In Picture 12 I was trying different center pieces.  When the pendant part of the weaving is completed, clip any remaining ends.  If the weft (horizontal) threads are packed tight the necklace should not change shape (Picture#13). Do not remove from the board, we still have the straps and finishing any warp threads at the bottom of the pendant.


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Needleweaving Lesson Index Page All Lessons listed
Click to go to Lesson #1 (Introduction to Needleweaving)
Click to go to Lesson #2
(Looking at ideas for Needleweaving and reading about the elements of design.)
Click to go to Lesson #3 (A fun day with Sue). We gathered threads and beads for needleweaving.
Click to go to Lesson #4
(More on designing and placing pins)
Click to go to Lesson #5 African Needleweaving Project #1 Pictures show the necklace progress on one page
Click to go to Lesson #6 (Here we will add waxed linen warp, (Vertical Threads)
Click to go to Lesson #7 (We will be adding the beads and the fun begins)

This is Lesson # 8
   (We are going to start Weaving)
Click to go to Lesson #9 (Learning to make a Lark's head Knot and finish off the bottom warps)
Click to go to Lesson #10 ( Adding warp threads for the straps and finishing)

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